On May 8, 2025, the newly elected Pope Leo XIV made his first appearance on the central loggia of St. Peter’s Basilica — and his sartorial choices immediately set him apart. In contrast to the minimalist style embraced by Pope Francis, Leo donned a rich red satin shoulder cape (mozzetta), gold-embroidered stole, and a golden pectoral cross suspended from a silk cord. This return to traditional papal regalia has reignited discussions about the symbolism of papal fashion and whether it reflects a deeper ideological shift.
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Fashion as a Statement of Papal Philosophy
Pope Francis was known for his humble, stripped-down approach to papal garments — typically wearing only a simple white cassock and plain silver cross. Pope Leo XIV, however, has chosen to revive many traditional vestments long associated with the papacies of Pope Benedict XVI and Saint John Paul II. His choices include cufflinks, lace-trimmed garments, and even the return of white papal trousers — items phased out during Francis’s tenure in favor of simplicity.
For many observers, these fashion choices aren’t just about aesthetics. They raise larger questions about whether Pope Leo XIV may lead the Church in a more conservative, tradition-embracing direction.
Traditionalist Catholics Take Notice
Catholics with a traditionalist bent have welcomed these developments. According to Rev. John Walk, a professor of Church Communication at Pontifical Holy Cross University in Rome, Pope Leo’s attire is a clear “return to form,” reminiscent of pre-Francis pontificates. Walk noted, “His wardrobe choices reflect a deep respect for the historic dignity of the papal office.”
This shift aligns with the hopes of many conservative Catholics who had grown disillusioned with what they saw as Pope Francis’s more casual, reformist tone.
The Return of Latin and Liturgical Formality
Another telling element of Pope Leo XIV’s approach is his renewed use of Latin, particularly during public prayers and blessings. His fluency in Latin — including singing the Sunday Angelus prayer in the ancient language — has earned praise from traditionalists who champion the Latin Mass and fear its gradual suppression.
Many hope that Leo will roll back restrictions on the Latin Mass imposed during Francis’s pontificate, signaling a broader re-engagement with pre-Vatican II traditions.
Papal Inauguration and Symbolic Gestures
During his inaugural Mass on May 18, Pope Leo further emphasized traditional elements: from wearing the amice (a liturgical neck cloth) to visibly ornate alb and cincture garments. Notably, he wore cufflinks, rarely seen under Pope Francis.
He also revived the custom of the “baciamano” — the kissing of the Pope’s ring — which Pope Francis had often discouraged. These gestures, while seemingly small, underscore a commitment to formal papal customs that resonate strongly with more traditional believers.
A Return to the Apostolic Palace?
While Pope Francis chose to live in the more modest Casa Santa Marta, rejecting the papal apartment in the Apostolic Palace, speculation is mounting about whether Pope Leo XIV might return to the traditional residence. Such a move would further signal a return to longstanding papal norms — not just in dress but also in lifestyle and symbolic stature.
Not Everyone Is Impressed by the Wardrobe Shift
Critics argue that too much focus on vestments misses the point. Rev. Castro Prudencio, a Catholic priest and commentator, said, “For Pope Francis, simplicity wasn’t about fashion — it was a theological and pastoral statement. Returning to ornate garments doesn’t automatically make a pope more faithful to tradition in substance.”
Theologian Massimo Faggioli, of Villanova University, echoed this caution. “It’s too early to say whether Leo’s traditional attire will translate into a rollback of Francis-era reforms,” he said. “His fashion choices certainly please conservative Catholics, but policy is what ultimately matters.”
Conclusion: A New Era of Papal Identity?
As Pope Leo XIV settles into his papacy, the Catholic world watches with anticipation. Is this return to traditional papal dress a mere symbolic nod to history, or a signal of more profound theological and ideological realignment?
One thing is clear: under Pope Leo XIV, Vatican style is once again headline news, and what the pope wears is sparking deep conversations about what the Church stands for — and where it’s headed next.